LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN | MATTHEW MILLER

Rebellion and youth were the themes for Matthew Miller’s Spring Summer 2014 ‘Radical Prototypes’ collection, clearly shown by the topless long haired models that walked down the catwalk with the words ‘Untitled’ painted on their backs. 

Roughed edges and straight cuts in a variety of jackets, sweaters and trousers were showcased in a clean and neutral colour palette of white, grey, black and stone. The capsule collection meant that any combination worked well together making Miller’s Spring Summer 2014 accessible and ready-to-wear.

Skateboards, the chosen accessory this season, and matching chains on the trousers were gentle reminders of our youth, a time when we want to break out from the norm and become individuals, and Matthew Miller’s latest creations do just that.

WORDS | MASON MOORE

PHOTOS | GRACE MOLAN AND MASON MOORE

LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN | CHRISTOPHER SHANNON

Christopher Shannon takes us on a journey through 1980's Liverpool right up to the modern day with his Spring Summer 2014 collection. Inspired by the super club scene and the eclectic, vibrant aesthetic that accompanied it, Shannon references the Liverpool and Manchester clubs such as Cream, Garlands and Paradise.

Psychedelic prints and stand out logos dominate the collection which is comprised of slouchy patterned and tailored trousers, bomber jackets and printed shirts. It is a collection designed by a man for men and that is exactly what makes the Christopher Shannon aesthetic so appealing. He pushes boundaries but knows the limits.

Liberty also collaborated with Christopher Shannon for this collection, producing nylon fabrics printed with the signature Liberty floral print. It was the first time Liberty have collaborated on a project like this and the results are fantastic.

The mix of modernism and heritage produces a collection which is timeless and rich in cultural references. Glittery hair and trainers give the collection a much loved, playful edge and allows it to transcend any age or social boundaries. Although a shift from what we are usually used to seeing from Christopher Shannon, it is an exciting taster for things to come. We are eager to see more.

WORDS | GRACE MOLAN

PHOTOS | GRACE MOLAN AND MASON MOORE

LONDON COLLECTIONS : MEN | XANDER ZHOU

Xander Zhou is one of the few designers showcasing at London Collections Men this season who has demonstrated real progression from last season. His Autumn Winter 2013 collection with its bright, electric blues is a far cry from his latest collection.

The collection has a simple colour palette of white, black and beige which, when combined with the white garters and thin silver choker collars, gives it a cold, clinical feel. The theme of the collection is perception, explored through the internet and beyond. The press release simply reads "The world is how we perceive it. And I can share it with you". Xander Zhou translates this into jackets printed with symbols synonymous with the internet such as zip file logos and video play buttons and then deconstructs the suit leaving models wearing extra long suit jackets with suit trousers cut to thigh grazing lengths. In fact, there are no hands on show during the whole show, only copious amounts of legs.

Xander Zhou has taken virtual reality and transplanted it to our reality, in the form of a SS14 menswear collection. 

WORDS | GRACE MOLAN

PHOTOS | GRACE MOLAN AND MASON MOORE 

LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN | CHESTER BARRIE

Chester Barrie's Spring Summer 2014 collection, showcased at London Collections: Men takes inspiration from the 1980s. Models wearing suits made from the softest tweed with accessories in pink, cream, tobacco and beige looked as if they had just walked off the pages of Brideshead Revisited with their masculine and refined looks.

The presentation also introduced the new Chester Barrie Blue range, a capsule collection comprised of  more casual pieces than the formal line. Paisley print navy linen shirts and golfing jackets are just a few of the offerings from the diffusion line but despite the relaxed style, the collection still maintains the brand's core principles of flawless attention to detail and flamboyant styling.

WORDS | GRACE MOLAN

PHOTOS | GRACE MOLAN AND MASON MOORE

LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN | BAARTMANS AND SIEGEL

Baartmans and Siegel offered a tropical take on luxury with their Spring Summer 2013 collection titled 'South Pacific Aviation'. Inspired by adventure, exploration and hedonism the collection adapts classic military silhouettes and recreates them in peached jerseys, iridescent raw silks and perforated suede.

The collection was mainly comprised of navy and black garments which were occasionally broken up by a beige trouser or a shot of colour from the trainers worn by all the models. The silk skinny track pants were a statement piece from the collection, showing off Baartmans and Siegel's signature laid back vibe however it was the array of jackets which really caught our attention. Deconstructed parkas and car coats were showcased along side classic bomber jackets, a field jacket and a lounge trench.

The collection was united by a strong masculine identity shown through the brooding dark colour palette and it gave hints as to what we can expect from Baartmans and Siegel in the future.

WORDS AND PHOTOS | GRACE  MOLAN

LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN | HOM X JONATHAN SAUNDERS

One of the sexiest collaborations of London Collections:Men was the collaboration between underwear brand Hom and menswear label Jonathan Saunders. 

Bold shades and classic blocks of colour were showcased alongside deeper hues of navy and black, with specially created textile prints and an edit of those taken from Jonathan's Spring Summer 2014 mainline men's collection. Luckily for all the men out there they can now have the comfort and phenomenal fit of Hom, with the fashion forward edge of Jonathan Saunders. Summer has never been so sexy. 

WORDS AND PHOTOS | PATRICK MCDOWELL 

LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN | JAMES LONG

Sportswear has been a common source of inspiration for designers this season, however James Long has taken it and created something truly unique. Inspired by cycling and the neon brights of the Lycra, James long mixed his signature knitwear with baggy monochrome shorts and mesh outwear. 

The show began with a dim of lights and a faint metallic tinkling sound as if the cyclists were just preparing for a race. Music cut in and models walked out, neon bursts of colour shooting through the monochrome mesh of their garments. Although very precise in his design approach,  James Long knows exactly how to master subtlety. Varying textures are intricately paired together, only noticeable to those looking closely at the collection. 

If you are wondering what pattern will be big next season, James Long only has one answer for you! Stripes!  

WORDS | GRACE MOLAN

PHOTOS | GRACE MOLAN AND MASON MOORE